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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end names. But, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary achievement.